Get the most out of your plastic postcards without alot of hassle... Bill Porter, the guy who invented the corrugated plastic postcard shares some of his findings:
"When I first started using Champion/Artmate's corrugated plastic as a test for making postcards with it, I went through quite a bit of trial-and-error. Many of the mail artists that I've shared samples with, I've also shared these tips on a few do's and don'ts. I hope this will save you from going through any frustration when you first try your hand at creating some really fun mail art."
View some samples
Using acrylic paints: Give it at least 24 hours to cure before any touching or rough (postal) handling.
Want to write on them? I use an industrial strength Sharpie. If you write large, or want big, bold lettering, Marks-A-Lot permanent markers are great to use.
Want to draw on ‘em? Really vibrant colors and really black blacks… use Tombow pens. Marvy markers are ok also. But Tombow black really produces a good BLACK.
Rubber stamp inks all seem to work fine. The dye ink pads (I use Memories) dry within an hour or two. Carter’s micropore pads will take 24 hours or more, to dry.
Embossing – you do have to take a little care here due to the heat. As soon as the embossing powder starts to flow, go to the next image to be heated in another location on the plastic surface or, just remove the heat. Don’t keep too much heat in one spot very long. It will cause a little warpage if you do.
Adhesives & glues:
3M’s Super 77 spray adhesive is good. 3M's spray Photo Adhesive works (use the permanent type). Don’t use rubber cement. Although it won’t harm the plastic, it will eventually discolor your artwork.
Elmer’s glue works okay too, and I’ve found another glue that I think will work better, maybe you’ve heard of it. It’s called Royal Coat Dimensional Magic.
I usually dry mount my photos onto the plastic. My personal favorite technique is to use Seal Fusion 4000 sandwiched between the face of the photo and a clear, 4"x6" plastic postcard. The 2mm corruplast is very transparent, which allows good visibility of the photo image through the card. The Fusion 4000 is also clear when heat activated for the bond. The back of the photo then, gives a clean, smooth surface for addressing and writing your message on.
Mounting watercolor papers - again, I use my dry-mount press for this. With watercolor paper being heavy and opaque, I use either Seal's ColorMount dry-mounting adhesive for RC papers or, their standard dry-mounting tissue. But Seal Fusion 4000 works equally well. I mount the paper to the card first, then watercolor on it later. The rigidity of the corroplast keeps paper curl to a minimum while drying and usually, the whole card is perfectly flat when dry.
Collage - I use LiquiTex medium viscosity acrylic GLOSS MEDIUM. This works really great on permanently adhering photos and other items. It dries quickly too. (Modg-Podge should work equally as well.)
Finishing and clean-up:
Spray fixatives are fine. You can’t hurt this stuff.
Don’t like something you’ve done on it? Just about any thinner or cleaner that an artist will have in their stores will work. Even gasoline will clean it up. But if you use gas, you may have a time removing the petroleum film gas leaves behind.
"I have really had a blast using the corroplast postcards. My wife, Kathy Lou, and I have found many other creative uses for it besides mailing. We've made mini-easels with it, hard-covers for small books, photo mailer stiffeners, just to name a few. You really should try some."
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